Hubby and I left Edinburgh after a hardy European breakfast at the Ibis and took the train to Oxenholme. A taxi deposited us at the Hawksmoor Guest House in Windermere. We dropped our bags in our surprisingly spacious room and walked 8 minutes to Bowness-on-Windermere.

The crowds were thick, but we were able to get on the next ferry to Ambleside.

The view of the lake from the top (open) level of the ferry

Our goal was the Hayes Garden Centre in Ambleside, where I had bought my favorite shoes in 2023. This time, I bought three pairs of Loretta brand shoes! Hubby bought a handy hiking guide, 15 Short Walks Lake District: Windermere, Ambleside & Grasmere.

Hayes Garden Centre has everything a body could want, including a diner.

We continued on into Ambleside with me explaining to hubby the significance of the town: in 2004, my older sister had insisted I read A Charlotte Mason Companion. The philosophy of Charlotte Mason became the foundation of our family’s homeschool experience. 

It may seem strange, but I love to read tombstones and wonder at lives they represent.

We veered off the road into a church cemetery “just for fun.” Within a few steps, I saw this small monument: 

Speaking of Charlotte Mason, there she was!

After surveying the very weathered tombstone, we were drawn by a beautiful operatic voice coming from the church and building beyond. Apparently, several soloists were preparing for a weekend musicale.

We decided to take the bus back to our B&B. In Windermere, we found a tapas place to grab a quick meal with a conveniently located ice cream shop next door. 

On our walk back to Hawksmoor, we spied a sign in a small park that pointed to a lakeshore trail. Since it was only ¾ of a mile, we took off down a street of gorgeous estates, crossed a busy road, and emerged from some woods at a couple of piers.

Only a few people, mostly families, dawdled nearby. We found a spot on a pier and sat to watch the sunset. 

At dusk, Hubby insisted that we take a shortcut back to our lodgings. We found out later that the path is called the “Sheriff’s Walk.” It was a straight, uphill climb in a heavily forested area, but we soon found a babbling creek with a little waterfall and a (probable) Viking marker. Fun, fun!

The next day was Sunday, and I was determined to have an English roast. Hubby had already reserved a table for us at The Flying Pig. But first, he suggested we take a good little hike to work up an appetite.

The Dales Way starts in Bowness and climbs steeply. It meanders through fields of sheep and cows until it reaches School Knott (circa 1637), once the site of a school but now just a rocky outcropping with a spectacular view of the lake and surrounding farm land.

I can never get enough of these views!

We did get a tad confused and maybe added a few feet in altitude to our journey at this point; we didn’t know exactly how much “1 km” would be (on our feet), and we missed a “sharp left turn.” However, we made it back to town for our dinner reservation with about 5 minutes to spare!

The view from School Knott
An appropriate resting place for those who do this climb/hike
Sunday roast with roasted root veggies and cabbage, three appetizers (pigs in a blanket, bacon wrapped stuffing, and cheesy cauliflower. The popover bread is Yorkshire Pudding.

We were comfortably full, but we knew there was another hike we needed to do.

Using our guide, we struck out for Orrest Head and Holehird Gardens.

Holehird Gardens–too many brilliant views to put in this one blog post.

Holehird Gardens is an award winning, volunteer-run garden, which was started in the early 1800s.

The home there was a vacation rental for Beatrix Potter’s family. The place is gorgeous. We got to it by crossing three fields and squeezing through a make-shift stile and gate.

Our final stop was Orrest Head and its magnificent view of Windermere, the largest lake in the Lake District.

Here’s a pic of my “new” shoes after six days of walking. I thank God for them and the husband who wisely insisted I buy them six days before!

2 Comments

  1. I visited your Aunt Lori today, and I loved your post about her. Thank you.

    • Nancy

      She’s a wonderful lady. I’m glad you enjoyed my post!

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